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Near shore waves, long-shore currents and sediment transport along micro-tidal beaches, central west coast of India

IR@NIO: CSIR-National Institute Of Oceanography, Goa

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Field Value
 
Creator Philip, C.S.
SanilKumar, V.
Dora, G.U.
Johnson, G.
 
Date 2014-11-20T07:43:18Z
2014-11-20T07:43:18Z
2014
 
Identifier International Journal of Sediment Research, vol.29(3); 2014; 402-413
no
http://drs.nio.org/drs/handle/2264/4636
 
Description Coastlines are undergoing constant geomorphologic changes with respect to the incident wave climate. Based on waves measured at 9 m water depth, simulation of near shore wave transformation is done using REFDIF-1 numerical model and the near shore breaker parameters are estimated at two micro-tidal beaches along central west coast of India. Model results are validated with measured values. From the breaker parameters, long-shore current and long-shore sediment transport rates (LSTR) are computed by using semi empirical equations. Estimated long-shore current and LSTR are showing dramatic variations with respect to seasons. Predominant direction of LSTR is observed towards north since the approach waves are from south-west direction during pre-monsoon and post monsoon. During monsoon season, waves are from west south-west and resulted in southerly transport. The estimated annual net and gross LSTR by Cambridge Environmental Research Consultants (CERC) at two locations are in the same order whereas LSTR estimated by Walton & Bruno and Kamphuis equations are showing different estimations because of difference in surf-zone width and foreshore slope between the two locations. For micro-tidal beaches with length less than 6 km, Kamphuis equation is giving agreeable estimation of LSTR. Sensitivity analysis of LSTR estimate shows that coastal inclination is the prominent factor in determining LSTR than incident wave angle.
 
Language en
 
Publisher Elsevier
 
Relation Int_J_Sediment_Res_29_403.jpg
 
Rights An edited version of this paper was published by Elsevier. Copyright [2014] Elsevier
 
Subject sediment
wave transformation
transport rate
near shore wave
 
Title Near shore waves, long-shore currents and sediment transport along micro-tidal beaches, central west coast of India
 
Type Journal Article